Kenmore washer and dryer repair covers washers stopped mid-cycle with water in the drum, gas dryer faults, control panels that will not power on, and cycle knobs that stick. Diagnosis happens at your home, allowing for the extra time some Kenmore parts take to find.
Kenmore machines are older than most brands on this site. Sold for decades and built to last, many are still running — with the occasional repair.
Their faults are the faults of machines that have worked a long time: lid switches, drive belts, motor couplings, and control panels.
Kenmore washers are usually top-loaders built around an agitator, and Kenmore dryers are usually electric or gas machines of a simple design.
Kenmore parts can take longer to find than parts for current brands, since the brand is no longer sold new — and the provider will say so up front if a part has to be ordered.
Common Kenmore faults at a glance
- Washer stopped mid-cycle
- Gas dryer faults
- Control panel fault
- Cycle knob fault
- Washer will not spin
- Dryer not heating
Why did my Kenmore washer stop mid-cycle?
A Kenmore washer stopped mid-cycle with water in the drum usually has a drain fault or a lid switch fault. The drain fault is usually a filter choked with lint, a hose kinked where it meets the machine, or a pump that has given up.
The lid switch fault stops the cycle from advancing, even though the machine has filled and washed.
The drum has to be drained before the door or lid is opened and before the fault is found. On a top-loader the lid can usually be opened, but the drum is still full; on a front-loader the door stays shut while the drum is full.
Never tip the machine to empty it — a full drum is heavy, and a wet floor is slippery underfoot. If it is leaking as well as stuck, shut the supply valves first.
- Close the supply valves if water is on the floor.
- Drain the drum through the pump filter or drain hose.
- Copy down any error code before resetting.
- Note whether it stopped with water in the drum.
Why won't my Kenmore gas dryer heat?
Kenmore gas dryers most often fail on heat, and the fault is usually in the ignition parts. The igniter lights the gas; a dead igniter means a cold dryer. The gas valve controls the flow, and when its coils fail the burner does not light. The flame sensor keeps watch on the flame, and if it fails the burner cuts out.
A Kenmore gas dryer that warms up and then goes cold usually has a failing gas valve coil: it works while cold and fails as it warms.
A dryer that never heats at all usually has a failed igniter, and a dryer that lights and then goes out again usually has a failing flame sensor.
Gas connections are checked for leaks on every gas dryer visit. If you smell gas, close the supply and ventilate the room before the visit.
Control panel and cycle knob faults
A Kenmore control panel that will not power on usually has a power fault: the outlet, the breaker or the board. The outlet and breaker are looked at first, then the board.
A cycle knob that is stuck, or that turns without changing the cycle, usually has a faulty selector or a worn knob. The selector is tested first, because it is a small part and a common failure on older machines.
Spare parts for Kenmore machines can take longer to find, since the brand is no longer sold new. The provider will say whether a part has to be ordered, and give a realistic time.
Should I repair or replace my Kenmore machine?
A Kenmore with a dead lid switch, drive belt or igniter is usually worth repairing — sturdy machines, and the repair is usually straightforward.
A gas dryer that warms and then goes cold is often a gas valve coil, a small part; a washer stopped mid-cycle is often a drain fault or a lid switch.
A machine with a dead control board or transmission is a different call, especially if the part is hard to find, since the brand is no longer sold new. Once the fault is known the provider will tell you straight whether the repair is worth it, including whether the part is available and how long it will take.
What to tell your provider about your Kenmore machine
Begin with what the machine is doing, then the brand and the model number. The Kenmore model number is printed on a plate inside the lid or door, or on the back panel, and it tells the provider more than the brand alone — two Kenmores from different years can need different lid switches, different drive belts and different control panels.
Kenmore model numbers also tell the provider which manufacturer built the machine, which decides which parts fit. Any error code on the display should be noted before the machine is switched off; a restart wipes it.
Say whether the washer stopped mid-cycle, whether it stopped with water in the drum, and whether the gas dryer heats at all — a dryer that warms up then goes cold usually means the gas valve coils.
A control panel that will not power on points to the outlet, the breaker or the control board. If the machine is leaking, note where the water shows up and whether it stopped at the same time. That, with the model number and any code, lets a provider arrive carrying the Kenmore part most likely to have failed.
Kenmore's gas dryer faults are covered in more depth on the dryer repair page; Kenmore washer repair in North Carolina gives the statewide view.